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Transmissions and Torque Converters Tranny and torque converter tech support |
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#1
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how fast can i take the 2004R
i am building up my 86 T-Type and had the trans done by a local shop with a good rep, they did some of the performance basics. Other than the lock-up not working (a question for another thread...), i have had no problems with it.
i'd like to know just what the trans will take. i want to keep the OEM trans because i do drive the car daily (i just love driving it!). thanks in advance. Matt in Winnipeg. |
#2
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Quote:
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'86 Gn with an RPE bullet. Almost everything else is from Cottons. 100% street car! |
#3
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Thanks for the response. The trans has HD clutches, billet servo, shift kit (trans-go) and the stock pump. the convertor is 2800 LU. I took it back to get the LU working again and they got it working - i stored the car and when i brought it out last year the LU didn't work again, so i'm currently trying to figure that out. The goal for the car is low 11's, but i'm not opposed to a solid 10 sec run! do i need a different pump for that? any other 'must-do's' for the trans? (other than the converter, of course).
thanks again Matt |
#4
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I would look into a billet forward drum minimum. I broke mine twice, once when shifting into second gear, once by locking the converter at WOT. (one of 100 times I did that lol)
I went with a 9.5" PTC N/L converter and it revs at about 2000rpm at 65 mph, not much different than a locking one.
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1986 T-Type Leather/column What turbo? Powerstroke IC, Forged Stroker,GN 1's,Razor alky, XFI, 3.5" DP, Extrm stg2 tranny,TA Headers PTC 9.5 N/L 3400 stall |
#5
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thats interesting - i was trying to wire my lock-up to do just that. where do you get it?
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#6
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We carry them, let me know if you want one, those are a non LU converter, but tend to couple much better than older non lu units..
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Jack Cotton Cottons Performance 413-789-0531 |
#7
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My 2004R has seen TONS of very, very low 11 second and almost as many high 10 second passes (between 10.70s and 10.90s) in my 3660lb GN before it was swapped into my T-Type (along with a bunch of street miles). Converter is a N/L 9" Art Carr. No trans brake. Most of the drag strip passes were on 28x9" Hoosiers with 60ft times in the high 1.40s.
A seperate trans cooler is a MUST. Don't use the factory "cooler" which runs the fluid through the radiator. Have it built by a trans shop that knows the 2004R. I know a trans guy that makes his living building Power Glides and TH400s that live behind fire-breathing blown alky injected Big Block Chevys, but he couldn't get a 2004R to live in a 12 second car. Spend the money and go with a shop that has a reputation of building killer 2004Rs. It won't be cheap, but at least you know it'll be done right the first time. |
#8
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Great info Eddie, thanks~~!
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Jack Cotton Cottons Performance 413-789-0531 |
#9
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11s?? Go with a good performance rebuild.
Low 11s, get the billet parts. It'll cost more, but it will last longer. Jack can set you up with whatever you need. I finally got my tranny setup just right, so that it should have lived well into the 10s. Well that is if you don't tear the back of the motor off!
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Brian Keep it shiny side up, but show them your dirty side once in a while. 11.3@123mph on 195/75/14" whitewalls. Yes, 195s! 11.2 on the big giant slicks. What's the point? Maybe I'll go back to the whitewalls. They are lighter and have less rolling resistance. |
#10
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great info. I spent $2300 having the trans done up - but this brings up another question: when i took it back to have them look at the lock-up, they changed the fluid/filter as well. they said that the "ammount of sediment in the pan was equivilant to 80,000km of regular driving" but it only had 5000km on it (but 2 race weekends as well). is that normal for the HD clutches? i'm not a "jerkwater street peeler" nailing it at every light, but i did use slicks at the track.
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