87 GN needing some help

[JCotton1]

Shoot, everything looks pretty normal there, all stock parts. I didn't dig a block out yet, actually kinda forgot, but forgot because we are flat out.. Shake Gerry's tree and tell him to remind me to dig out a block and check....

[stevestatix]

If everything looks good to you then I am feeling better. On that note, if i purchased new pistons should I bore it out to .20? Is that all that needs to be done to bore? new pistons and rings? Can I use the stock rods for the new psitons, and if so how do you dis-assemble them?

[stevestatix]

Found a shop local to me in Stafford, VA. He will be cleaning and boreing the block 20 over and inspecting all my other componets for servicability for $250. Is that a good price?

I will keep updates coming as I get them. Oh yeah, I will also be putting in a nice order to you Jack in the very near future.

[JCotton1]

Originally Posted by stevestatix

Found a shop local to me in Stafford, VA. He will be cleaning and boreing the block 20 over and inspecting all my other componets for servicability for $250. Is that a good price?

I will keep updates coming as I get them. Oh yeah, I will also be putting in a nice order to you Jack in the very near future.

That sounds pretty good. I still have to find a damn block and check that hole... it's just been nuts at the shop...

[stevestatix]

so i dropped most of my internals off at the machine shop. i was told the cam is shot and should go ahead and spend the money and get a Comp Cams kit. Since i want to re do this motor once and right i decided to go ahead and go with his suggestion. He mentioned the crank wasnt to bad and i can get it ground to a 10 - 10. He will be boring it 20 over and also clean the heads up and the intake and pleneum. the heads had ARP bolts so i will be re using them. New pistons and he mentioned new rods due to a new cam kit and new pistons.
Engine clean and bore $250
Crank grind $200
didnt ask about the heads getting cleaned up.

Does this make sense to you guys and gals?

[JCotton1]

Originally Posted by stevestatix

so i dropped most of my internals off at the machine shop. i was told the cam is shot and should go ahead and spend the money and get a Comp Cams kit. Since i want to re do this motor once and right i decided to go ahead and go with his suggestion. He mentioned the crank wasnt to bad and i can get it ground to a 10 - 10. He will be boring it 20 over and also clean the heads up and the intake and pleneum. the heads had ARP bolts so i will be re using them. New pistons and he mentioned new rods due to a new cam kit and new pistons.
Engine clean and bore $250
Crank grind $200
didnt ask about the heads getting cleaned up.

Does this make sense to you guys and gals?

Hopefully he has experience building our turbo motors otherwise it could turn out bad... As for parts,, if you want to do it right and do it once, I recommend our Roller cam kit, diamond piston and we have the Scat rods in stock... your builder should be able to get the King bearings, that's what we recommend. ARP main studs as well as some steel main caps.. give Gerry a call and he should be able to get you going, I'll be around if you need tot talk to me..

[stevestatix]

Ok, motor is back in, sealed tight except for the crack in the manifold at the coolant temp sensor. I try to start her up and get a "puff" of pressure from the exhaust and the motor bogs the starter down. It will not start up and Im not sure what to do, I have no cam tool but it is degreed in per caspers instructions and others. primed the oil pump until lifters were getting oil.

everything is hooked up right, i do not have an EGR anymore or the solenoid, could that be a problem?

no heat or ac anymore either.

any and all help is greatly appreciated.