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Drag Racing 101 So you want to be a better racer... |
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Going to the track Checklist (For Newbs)
This is a simple "thing's to do" before and at the track quick reference.
1) Make sure your car is running at it's best before going to the track. Admission, race gas and the chance of breakage will bring failure and a waste of money. If not up to par, just shine it up, park in the pits and have fun with your friends. 2) Common tools needed: (If you go with friends, it's a good idea to see what each is bringing. No sense in having 5 floor jacks.) screwdrivers regular and Philips socket set regular and metric wrenches regular and metric pliers and wire cutters allen wrench for fuel regulator. lug wrench and jack air supply scantool multimeter and test light. 3) Spare parts. Common failures are turbo hoses, clamps, vacuum hose, crank sensor and belt. There are other items but this is what I've given away most of the time. 4) Fuel seems to be the biggest problem. Many go to the track with a half a tank of gas then add 2 gals of C16 as it's $7.00 a gallon, and crank the boost up. It doesn't work this way. You are playing Russian Roulette with your head gaskets. Try and arrive at the track with as little gas as possible. Rig up a pump to drain the tank at the fuel rail or tank neck. Empty into 1 or 2 gallon safety cans. Now determine what octane you will be running. Don't forget that fuel is also heavy. Try and run between a 1/4 and 1/2 a tank. Too low and you will get starvation and too much you will be adding up to 50lbs. 5) If you are running alcohol, or propane injection, consider that race gas makes more power then alcohol or propane. But, all mixed together and you will have too many variables to figure out. Pick one and stay with it. Some have reached lower 11's with an alcohol setup. It's not race gas, but, it can be a lot cheaper over time. 6) Fluids. Most tracks don't like antifreeze, so empty the overflow tank. It's a good idea to race on a fresh oil change. This way it will be easy to see a sudden change in oil quality from gas, water or loss. It's best to run on straight water with an additive in case of a blown head gasket. Less risk of bearing damage that way. Transmission fluid should be filled to the S bend on the stick. 7) Tires. Adjust your tire pressure cold. If one tire is in the sun and the other shaded they can vary 10lbs in a few minutes. So cover the sunny one with an old jacket or cover. Fill front tires to 45-50 lbs. They should be stable for the day. Your rear tires will need to be checked after every run. 8) Weight. Make sure you empty your whole car including spare and jack as well. Don't forget the drivers floor mat. It can wedge under the gas pedal and prevent full throttle. 9)Safety. Make sure you have all your equipment for your ET. Helmets are usually required for most tracks. Fire Jacket, 5 point harness and rollbar once you hit the 11's. 10) Organized-Most tracks are busy, so 4 or 5 runs may be all you can get. Don't waste your runs. Get your fuel pressure, tire pressure and boost set as close as you can the first time out. Then fine tune as you go. This was written by Ed baker many many years ago.
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1987 GN 235ci, forged pistons,steel caps, race ported irons PT70 Ptrim 72 lb injectors, extender extreme ARP everything, 4" intake. ported throttlebody, Mease plenum, EGR delete race ported and welded intake. port matched to felpro 1200s , Cotton Front mount, F body rad, TA girdle on the Diff, Atr bar, Boxed control arms, Stock headers and THDP, ultra high flow cat (gutted) Hooker exhaust |
#2
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If stock
Spare rockers, buttons, pushrods are very important ... Saved me and others many a time... extendable magnet and a pair of mechanics gloves will save you from some Nasty burns
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If It Doesnt have a motor Its Not a sport, Its Just a game...
SOME PEOPLE SHOULD NOT OWN TOOLS Last edited by Mike_g; 03-02-2009 at 07:15 PM. |
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