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| Buick Turbo Tech General technical support for the 86-87 Buick turbo cars |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1
09-10-2008, 01:00 AM
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Car bucks and spits rich, stalls only when it warms up
Hi - i've been trying to fix this myself for the last couple of days but find that i've run out of knowledge (i'm surprised it took this long...)
the trusty-t (86 T-Type, oem ecu, inj, chip, turbo, maf, 3"dp and dual ex) just started to do this on the way to the boys football games on Saturday. it fired up great, drove down the road fine and then 1/2 way to the field, as i started to drive away from a stop light, it layed down and coughed, i stood on it a little and it picked up to 60k, and cruised fine, then as i got closer to the field, and i had to slow down, it wouldn't accelerate again, just coughing and puking, running really rich, then stalling. i let it cool down a bit and it started and ran like crap, stalling all the way home. i had to bring the mini-van to football...the boys were not happy!! i changed the ign module and that didn't do anything, i disconnected the battery and that did nothing. i changed FPR's, played with the fuel pressure-still nothing. no bad connections, no vacuum leaks Help! I've spoiled my boys-they only like to go to football in the Buick!!! Matt 
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#2
09-10-2008, 01:15 AM
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Do you have a spare MAF you can try?
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1986 T-Type Leather/column What turbo? Powerstroke IC, Forged Stroker,GN 1's,Razor alky, XFI, 3.5" DP, Extrm stg2 tranny,TA Headers PTC 9.5 N/L 3400 stall
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#3
09-10-2008, 02:13 AM
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Plug(s) take a crap? Ignition wire(s)?
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'86 Gn with an RPE bullet. Almost everything else is from Cottons. 100% street car!
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#4
09-10-2008, 11:04 AM
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I think Sean hit it, check the mAF. Plugs and wires maybe affected by the MAF going bad. Also when doing a module or coil, I recommend doing both as a unit, especially if they are original.
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Jack Cotton Cottons Performance 413-789-0531
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#5
09-10-2008, 01:32 PM
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I don't have a spare MAF. i did check the connection on it, but thats about it. i took it out recently and cleaned it out a bit - maybe i damaged something?? i'll call around today and see if i can get one locally. i'll change the plugs while i'm at it, any specifics there i should buy NGK, delco?
thanks!
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#7
09-10-2008, 05:45 PM
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Thanks!
i called around and in a city of 750,000 people, you'd think i could get a stock MAF? Nope. and the prices were crazy, from $180 to $293 "but the warehouse doesn't have any stock, it'll be a few days plus shipping costs" what a load. Anyway - does anybody have one or even a Translator set up for sale?
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#8
09-10-2008, 06:17 PM
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The MAFs aren't made any more, and it's a crap shoot when you buy a reman'd unit. I think that there is an aftermarket company that makes them, but don't know the name or the price. Sorry.
Is there anyone around you that can loan you one just to see if it is the problem? Do you have a scan tool? If so, what is the MAF reading?
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Brian Keep it shiny side up, but show them your dirty side once in a while. 11.3@123mph on 195/75/14" whitewalls. Yes, 195s! 11.2 on the big giant slicks. What's the point? Maybe I'll go back to the whitewalls. They are lighter and have less rolling resistance.
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#9
09-10-2008, 11:45 PM
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no-don't have a scan-tool. i want to get one but with the upgrading and new tech, i guess i've just never been sure what to get, what i will do is go and get a reading with my multimeter and see what it does.
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#10
09-11-2008, 01:04 AM
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Ok -i took the old volt meter to it and ign on and the car not running it was moving between 2.56 - 2.65 volts. when i fired it up, it stayed the same. when it revved up, it went to 2.44 and bounced up and back again between 2.4 and 2.6 - nothing changed when it warmed up, but it stalled.
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