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Buick Turbo Tech General technical support for the 86-87 Buick turbo cars |
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#1
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87 GN needing some help
Hello to all. First time posting on here so I will make sure I give as much information as possible.
Steve Sadek U.S. Marine (active) stationed at Quantico. Found this GN at Fredericksburg Auto Sales for $11K. Body looked great and overall was in good condition for her age. Didnt do my homework on venders and part reviews like I should have but cannot change that now. Here is a partial list; 1987 Grand National 98,500 miles T-Tops Stock Block Stock Tranny Stock Suspension Hardened Stator A bigger raditator that dosnt fit well Cold air intake from GN1 Performance 3" SS Exhaust from GN1 Performance Custom 66 Turbo and External wasgate down pipe from GN1 Performance Turbonetics Boost Controller from GN1 Performance Thumb Wheel with chip from ??? A/C delete with CRH Bracket 42lb Injectors Hotwired fuel pump Stock Intercooler 160deg Thermostat LS1 Maf with Translator There are a couple more things that were done but I do not have the email from the old owner anymore. I replaced the stock turbo with the GN1 combo deal (wish I didnt but I did). Replaced valley pan and gasket, intake pleneum gasket, water pump gasket, downpipe gasket, turbo to header gasket, new intercooler hoses, t-bolt clamps, new fuel injector seals, new fuel rail seals, intake and exhaust. I put everything on myself. She is smoking from the exhaust like a chimney, thick and white smoke. Smells real rich aswell. Once warmed up the smoke is less but still there. Had a few problems with boost controller and overbosted twice wich made my throttle body hose blow off and ruin a perfectly good hood liner. The check engine light comes on when i let off the throttle but goes away when on it. An older gentlemen mentioned to me that the head bolts are aftermarket so the heads were removed at one point. I didnt want to take the motor "apart" again but I am leaning to that route. Any help or ideas would be greatful as I was quoted $95 an hour for diagnosing fee. Thank you for your help and knowledge. |
#2
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First off...
Welcome and thank you for your service ! Unfortunately heavy white smoke is tell tale of a head gasket issue.(water/coolant dumping into the exhaust side) Also check for antifreeze in the oil. (AKA milkshake the oil will turn white in color.) Both are symptoms of a head gasket letting go. It sounds like the overboost got the better of you Good luck Mike
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If It Doesnt have a motor Its Not a sport, Its Just a game...
SOME PEOPLE SHOULD NOT OWN TOOLS |
#3
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Take it from me a former king of headgaskets. Mikey is right, you've blown one.
Not necessarily a terrible thing. It can be fixed. Hopefully you don't have coolant in the oil. If you do, then it can ruing your bearings. If you do, drain the oil, drain all of the coolant, refill the oil, run it for a for a minute or so, without coolant. Change the oil again. That is what I did after I got milkshake oil. I didn't have any bearing problems. Then replace the head gaskets, and before stepping on the pedal, drop the boost way down and gradually turn it up. If you are handy with tools, then you can do the head gaskets yourself. Look and see id they are ARP head bolts.
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Brian Keep it shiny side up, but show them your dirty side once in a while. 11.3@123mph on 195/75/14" whitewalls. Yes, 195s! 11.2 on the big giant slicks. What's the point? Maybe I'll go back to the whitewalls. They are lighter and have less rolling resistance. |
#4
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Thanks guys for the info. I am pretty handy with tools, and usually can put everything back together again.
I took the intake manifold off as a whole with one shot. Intake, intercooler, turbo and downpipe are also removed. Valley pan, valve covers, headers, crosspipe and heads are out. Found two cracks in my driver side headers. Took awhile to remove all the heat wrap from them. Almost spun the threads again in the hot side of the turbo. did that twice before. Since I tore it down this far I decided to just keep going and take everything out and start over. Too bad since I have had her since Feb. and have only put on about 1000 miles. Might make this a build thread and show my progress.
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Steve Sadek U.S. Marine Corps Sgt / Active Duty 1985 Buick Electra T-Type (RIP) 1987 Buick Grand National (work in progress) 2006 Subaru WRX Wagon (not stock) |
#5
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How are you making out Steve? Find anything in there?
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Jack Cotton Cottons Performance 413-789-0531 |
#6
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Since my last message I have been in the dog house after I told her how much headers can cost.
I havent been back to the garage to work on her since. Xmas is coming up and I need to get all the shopping done and get some brownie points back before I spend anymore money on the Buick. As it sits now I am looking at the following to get back up and running; Headgaskets Headers New fluids What I need to get; Scanmaster Replace any more old vac lines What I want to get; Radiator that fits TA-49 Different Exhaust Different Downpipe Service the Tranny I will keep everyone in the loop if at all possible. Thanks again for all the help.
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Steve Sadek U.S. Marine Corps Sgt / Active Duty 1985 Buick Electra T-Type (RIP) 1987 Buick Grand National (work in progress) 2006 Subaru WRX Wagon (not stock) |
#7
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The pics of this project are way too big for the fourm. They will be posted on my facebook page if anyone is interested. Some of the shots are the parts that I am trying to get rid of or trade for some "in store credit", hint hint.
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Steve Sadek U.S. Marine Corps Sgt / Active Duty 1985 Buick Electra T-Type (RIP) 1987 Buick Grand National (work in progress) 2006 Subaru WRX Wagon (not stock) |
#8
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Hey everyone, just an update on the beast. Removed the block, took out the cam, crank, pistons, mains, timing cover, timing chain, Ect...
First things first, the timing chain only had one bolt holding it in and that was finger loose making the bolt hole hollowed out. New timing chain now needed. The rear main seal was shot, the pistons are burned on top, the oil holes for the cam bearings were not lined up but i have read that some types don't require it. How can you tell though? I don't know what to look for to make sure the components are good, like the block, rods, heads, pistons Ect... I want to re use as much as I can to keep things original but don't want to miss something and have to take it all back apart. I saw a shop online called promar? Only $2500 for a complete motor shipped. Any thoughts or ideas are highly needed. Thanks everyone. Steve
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Steve Sadek U.S. Marine Corps Sgt / Active Duty 1985 Buick Electra T-Type (RIP) 1987 Buick Grand National (work in progress) 2006 Subaru WRX Wagon (not stock) |
#9
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Still would like some input on this project.
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Steve Sadek U.S. Marine Corps Sgt / Active Duty 1985 Buick Electra T-Type (RIP) 1987 Buick Grand National (work in progress) 2006 Subaru WRX Wagon (not stock) |
#10
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Morning Steve,
I hate saying sorry, but sorry I didn't respond sooner, no excuses.. but either way, I'm back. I never was good on email, a phone call is always the best way to get my attention.. but even that can be an adventure.. If you are needing to build a motor and looking for options, I would suggest using either us or a reputable Buick V6 builder. These 2500 shipped motor are more than likely just a basic, as cheap as possible, non turbo motor. You spend considerably more for a legit motor, but it will be right with quality parts. The cam bearings will most likely have a groove on the back side allowing the oil to get to where it needs to be no matter what the location. The main parts you could reuse are the rods, crank and block, depending on what the pistons are. We pretty much use only the diamond pistons when we rebuild. Are you pistons stock or have they been replaced and if so, what bore and brand?
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Jack Cotton Cottons Performance 413-789-0531 |
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