Jack
I find that the Brake light comes on when I hook them up this way. the sensor in the proportioning valve senses pressure on the front and none on the rear.
have you noticed this in the past?
The last on I did, I removes both lines coming out of the Prop valve, plugged one hole and installed a tee after the line lock.
No more brake light when using the linelock.
Just a thought....
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCotton1
1. remove line from master cylinder
2. Take supplied brake line and attach short side to the master cylinder
3. the other end goes into the brass straight fitting on the inlet side of the line lock solenoid. You may then attach the line lock where it sits on the fenderwell
4. carefully bend the original brake line to the outlet side of the line lock and attach, you can now bleed the line at that location. I usually have someone help bleed at this point.
5. now we can hook up our switch, attach one wire to ground, run the other wire to your switch and supply 12 volt power to the other side of your switch. You are done.. test it out and have fun..
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1987 GN
235ci, forged pistons,steel caps, race ported irons
PT70 Ptrim 72 lb injectors, extender extreme
ARP everything, 4" intake. ported throttlebody,
Mease plenum, EGR delete race ported and welded
intake. port matched to felpro 1200s , Cotton Front mount,
F body rad, TA girdle on the Diff, Atr bar, Boxed control arms,
Stock headers and THDP, ultra high flow cat (gutted)
Hooker exhaust
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