TEAM COTTON'S PERFORMANCE TURBO BUICK ONLINE FORUMS

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-   -   Cotton's Line Lock Installation (http://community.cottonsperformance.viper05.citasystems.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1224)

JCotton1 02-19-2009 12:24 PM

Cotton's Line Lock Installation
 
1. remove line from master cylinder, closest line to the firewall.


2. Take supplied brake line and attach short side to the master cylinder

3. the other end goes into the brass straight fitting on the inlet side of the line lock solenoid. You may then attach the line lock where it sits on the fenderwell

4. carefully bend the original brake line to the outlet side of the line lock and attach, you can now bleed the line at that location. I usually have someone help bleed at this point.

5. now we can hook up our switch, attach one wire to ground, run the other wire to your switch and supply 12 volt power to the other side of your switch. You are done.. test it out and have fun..

WSLN 6 02-20-2009 01:16 AM

Good writeup Jack! That's exactly how I installed mine years ago......until the NHRA techs said to move it to the "proper" location after the proportioning valve on the frame.....just a heads up! :)

Brad 02-21-2009 10:44 PM

Thanks Jack. I'll be ordering one shortly. :)

BadAssGN 03-02-2009 02:14 PM

Jack

I find that the Brake light comes on when I hook them up this way. the sensor in the proportioning valve senses pressure on the front and none on the rear.

have you noticed this in the past?

The last on I did, I removes both lines coming out of the Prop valve, plugged one hole and installed a tee after the line lock.

No more brake light when using the linelock.

Just a thought....


Quote:

Originally Posted by JCotton1 (Post 5279)
1. remove line from master cylinder

2. Take supplied brake line and attach short side to the master cylinder

3. the other end goes into the brass straight fitting on the inlet side of the line lock solenoid. You may then attach the line lock where it sits on the fenderwell

4. carefully bend the original brake line to the outlet side of the line lock and attach, you can now bleed the line at that location. I usually have someone help bleed at this point.

5. now we can hook up our switch, attach one wire to ground, run the other wire to your switch and supply 12 volt power to the other side of your switch. You are done.. test it out and have fun..


JCotton1 03-02-2009 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BadAssGN (Post 5388)
Jack

I find that the Brake light comes on when I hook them up this way. the sensor in the proportioning valve senses pressure on the front and none on the rear.

have you noticed this in the past?

The last on I did, I removes both lines coming out of the Prop valve, plugged one hole and installed a tee after the line lock.

No more brake light when using the linelock.

Just a thought....

Yes, I have, it only requires a lite tap of the brake pedal and it centers in the valve. I don't mind as it works like a warning lite that the line lock is or was applied. A lite tap and the lite goes out. As for the NHRA rule, I've heard that for 10 years, have never seen it in writing nor have I ever been called on it... (been to a few NHRA tracks) so for what it's worth, I'm just trying to keep it simple... thanks for the reminder though... :)

waGoN 03-02-2009 06:12 PM

It is much more complicated putting it after the proprotioning valve.
The PV is what splits the one line into two for the the two front wheels.
In order to use the line lock, you have to block one of the ports, run the other to the line lock, then connect both front brake lines to it, and you have to find a good place to put it. There isn't one, unless you want to run new lines to the brakes. If you want to try to use the ones that are there, then your only option is to mount it almost on top of the prop. valve. You can't do that, because it will be in the way of the shifter linkage.

Oh, and the light will go on no matter where you have it. But like Jack said, a tap of the pedal and it goes out.

Edit: BA, I just noticed that you had luck installing it after the prop valve and not getting the light on. Mine was installed that way, and I always got the light.


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