Can a 3.8 turbo take a manual trans?
 

Have you ever convertedto a manual I hate my 2004r and my ford aod I've used I miss having a stick can the engines thrust bearing r
take the force from a clutch or is what I heard on how it wasn't made for it true?

Don't know about the thrust bearing, but you will typically run slower with a stick since the turbo will have to spool after every shift unless you are really good at power shifting without blowing the motor.

There are some people out there that have done this, but it is very involved, and not worth it (for most). Like Bob said, you will lose boost and have to spool up the turbo everytime you clutch.
In order to do the conversion, you have to find the parts from a Gbody that had a stick originally, and those are few and far between. The only people that could benefit would be those that are planning on road racing or rally racing or whatever they call it.
What is wrong with your 2004R? If it is just giving you problems, then you just have to find the right builder for it. If you like shifting, then get a better shifter and manually shift it, or you could always have a manual valve body installed if that is what you want. You just wouldn't have the cluth pedal.
I know what you mean, I love driving a stick shift car/truck, but would never put one in the Buick.

Stick shift G-body
 

I always liked this idea, since I have never raced an automatic car in my fleet. About the pilot bushing or bearing, I think that it would fit in the crank, since it fits behind the knub on the torque converter, as long as the cranks for those engines has the clearance (I will look later). All of the parts are avalible from www.thepartsplaceinc.com. They don't make a kit per say, but the parts can be ordered seperately to make the conversion. Pedals, bell crank, rods, and frame bracket. And the block has to have the boss for the ball pivot, as long as it is there, it's easy to drill and tap. Basicaly, it's in the Chevelle, Malibu, SS book. My brother and I did this to his 1983 Malibu Wagon, which was a G-body. He had a 400 SBC though. You will need a B O P or universal GM scattershield, and block plate, and the correct flywheel, that would have to be SFI approved, and has to match the clutch (11 or 10.5 inch) and they are externally balanced (like a 400 SBC and most GM engines after 1985). It also has to work with the starter (153 or 168 tooth). The clutch (I use Centerforce Dual Friction) has to match the input shaft of the transmission (10 or 26 spline). Would be real nice in front of a Doug Nash 5 speed. :D

About loosing boost during the shift, I took out a Subaru WRX, and I think that it was just fine, during the power shift, on the street. They rev to 7000 rpm (2.0L boxer), and I don't think that the 3.8 will rev that high without some damage. It's always harder to short shift at the track, at least for me, when the engine doesn't spin past 5500 rpm.

I am going to try a manual trans behind my other 3.8 turbo engine, when I find the right car and truck. I don't think it will be a G-body though.

About the thrust from the clutch, I don't think that it would be an issue, since some Toyota guys run the Buick 3.8 and a manual trans. Also, 1978 Regals had a 3 speed trans standard with the 3.8, and the turbo 3.8's were the strongest built of the even and odd fire 3.8 engines.

More info
 

Now that my spare 3.8 is up in the air:

Pilot bushing fits the crank.

The boss for the ball pivot is a little tricky. Is it there, yes. Small block Chevys have two, one up by #5 cyl, and one behind #7. The 3.8 only has the rear one (the one we used in the Malibu). The distance between the bellhousing, and the boss are a little different. The Buick's boss is a little closer to the bell flange than the Chevy. I would be inclined to see the engine in a Buick or G-body before getting the mechanical linkage, just to see how the bracket would line up to the boss. This boss isn't drilled, and would have to be tapped also, with a blunt tap being careful not to drill into the oil gallery. Cast iron is easy to drill, but it has to be straight, or the bellcrank, and related linkage rods might bind up. And of course, you could always use a hydraulic clutch. During the rebuild, you'll have to figure out which flywheel will be of the correct weight to work.

And finally, It doesn't look like the exhaust would be in the way. Mine still has stock exhaust manifolds.

Correction
 

The engines are internaly balanced, and Centerforce makes the flywheel PN 700010. Sorry for the mistake.