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87 engine build
Jack, I took a picture of a problem I found. One of the bolt holes for the crank shaft cap has a hole through the bottom of it. The picture is on my facebook and here is the link. I would apprecieate it if you could take a look and let me know if this is a problem or something I dont need to worry about.
Thanks bud. http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php...type=1&theater |
people look at my post and problems but dont responed. Thanks for nothing.
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Thank you for the response, I have been very frusterated with this project since it is my first time attempting this in depth of an engine project and when I come across things I dont understand, it bugs me.
This is the second journal back from the front. Passenger side bolt hole. as you can see the allen key fits through it. It is a rough hole and doesnt appear to be from tapping the treads out. i just want to make sure that I am not going to be building something that has a problem and will be needing to be taken apart for something I could of caught early. Again, sorry for the asshole comment. Im sure you have ran into your fair share of problems. |
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Posted some pictures of different parts in my other thread.
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Your thoughts
Machinist mentioned that the rocker arms with their plastic stopper dont look to good. Recommended that i upgrade to roller rockers but isnt pushing it on me, just keeping me informed. Looking for your thoughts.
Block cleaned and bored .20 Glass beaded intake and pleneum Cleaned and ported heads 3 angle valve job new comp cams full kit 212/212 crank 10-10 grind diamond pistons, i need to order these from you today. 42lb injectors will be getting scat rods and other items from you also. |
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starting the re-build
I have my engine back from the shop. Starting the rebuild process and would like to know if there are any tips i should know. I have engine assy lube, torque wrench, engine stand / lift, alot of tools, the Peter Hoffman Buick Tubo Engine book.
i am reusing all the crank journal caps and bolts, is that a good idea? I am plasti-gauging them down with a light coat of oil on the bolts, again is this right? i have been watching this video series on youtube, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ap6dxOmNs6M, it seems to bring alot of insight to a re-build. Are they doing it right? I hope im not setting myself up for failure. Thanks for the help and info. Hopefully if anyone reads this and can help will put in their two cents....we will see. Also i will be up untill i cannot go any farther so call me if you want to. 910-787-5430 Steve call anytime EST |
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When putting in the cam and crank should engine assy lube be the only thing I needed or should is there something else. When putting in the pistons I lightly coated them and the walls with clean oil to help, was that a good idea?
I read that the rear main seal should also be heavely coated with rtv to ensure a good seal, thoughts on this? My machinist said I need to seal the head bolts? Is that entail putting rtv on the treads and torque them down? Is it safe to spin the crank once all pistons are in and set to ensure clearence and operation? It won't hurt the block will it? Thanks for the help you guys, I am having a lot of fun doing this. |
update
I have received most of my gaskets and am still waiting on the misses to allow me to purchase a few more parts. Cam, crank, pistons and timing chain are all on. It is much easier to put her back together while on an engine stand. I went with Fel-pro gaskets for everything so far, when I get the headers I will use what comes with them most likely.
Question tho, What should I RTV and what should I not RTV. Thanks again for the help and support guys and gals. Steve |
Almost done
Hey "cousin" Jack, just wanted to update everyone on the build, the pics are too big to upload even after i cut them down. They are all in a folder on facebook tho if anyone is interested.
I got the new oil pump gears yesterday and was looking at the different springs, The one I pulled from the "stock" unit matches the plain spring in figure A, however according to the measurements and the diagram I should be using the 40psi spring in figure B. Just your thoughts on this and if it is better to run stock 40psi or put it up to 60psi. Also on that, if the last owner had the longer spring and not the shorter correct one wouldnt that push the oil pressure up anyway? Is there a drawback to running more pressure than stock? Thanks for the input. |
Problems
Ok so the motor is back together, placed in the car everything hooked up, at least everything i think needs to be hooked up.
Here is the problem..... Primed the engine so there wouldn't be a dry start, Everything is the same as it was except no AC or Heat. When I tried to turn it over for the first time it cranked and had "little puffs of air" coming from somewhere by the throttle body. Never did start up, didnt want to crank on something that might be broken or not getting what it needs to start. Any help is appreciated everyone. Steve also gonna try to post a video somewhere in case you want to watch and hear it. |
I found my coolant leak.... where my coolant temp sensor screws into the intake, it is cracked straight through the sensor location hole on both sides. Looks like I will be getting a new intake manifold unless someone has an idea to fix a hairline crack in the manifold.
steve |
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need some help
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Also, when it does crank it sounds like there is to much compression, it will puff once and then the motor seems to bog down during cranking. Any ideas before i give in and take it to a shop????? |
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http://community.cottonsperformance....hread.php?t=82 |
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